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Strolling Around: Plaza de Armas, Bellavista, Pisco Sours, and More Salmon


Statue at the Plaza de Armas

After our seven-hour nap, Andreas and I were ready to hit the streets.  Thanks to Google Maps, we found ourselves a Starbucks (of course) near Plaza de Armas, the perfect place to start your adventures in the center of downtown Santiago.  Chilenos were out in full force on the gorgeous Saturday afternoon. There were street performers and street vendors selling artwork.   I told Andreas that I felt a lot safer carrying my camera in plain view of people than I did in Buenos Aires.  On several photography outings that I took in Buenos Aires, people (well-intentioned strangers) had warned me not to carry my camera so conspicuously.  There was a noticeable laid-back attitude among the crowds at Plaza de Armas – and it probably didn’t hurt that there was a visible presence of  Chilean police at what seemed like every city corner.


Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago – Plaza de Armas


Ceiling of Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago

Andreas and I decided to check out the Catedral Metropolitana de Santiago.  The interior of the 18th-century structure is stunning.  I especially loved the painted ceilings.  After soaking in the spiritual charm of the cathedral, we continued with our exploration of the plaza.


Museo Historico National

We walked over to the Museo Historico National and admired the colonial architecture. We  also caught a very amusing performance by a street mime, who drew the largest crowd at the plaza (video of the performance is forthcoming).  The mime interacted with random passersby, and he even hailed a taxi cab and incorporated it into his routine – the crowd loved every minute of it!


Parque Forestal – Santiago

Our next destination was the Bellavista barrio, for food and drink.  Noted for its bohemian charm, Bellavista is a young and vibrant neighborhood, with plenty of food and drink options, as well as many cute boutique shops.  To get there, we walked through the lovely Parque Forestal, an expansive park that abuts the Rio Mapocho.  On a sunny day you will find the park full of Chilenos relaxing on the grass and benches, and couples in various conspicuous acts of affection.


Crossing the Rio Mapocho towards Bellavista

As you walk towards the Bellavista barrio, you’ll spot the majestic Andes in the distance especially on days when the smog level is low.  As you cross over the bridge into Bellavista, you’ll see a fair on the left-hand side with many jewelry and clothing stands.  The main drag, Pio Nono, is full of outdoor seating of the many bars and restaurants that line the street.  Check out Patio Bellavista, which is a large interior square full of shops and dining spots.


Pisco Sours and Seafood Empanads at Ciudad Vieja

We decided to check out Azul Profundo (Constitución 111) a seafood restaurant recommended by a friend of Andreas, but it didn’t open until 7pm, a good thing since we weren’t very hungry yet.  Instead we went across the street to Ciudad Vieja (Constitución 92) where Andreas and I each had a variation on the pisco sour drink -  a national drink of sorts for Chile (a papaya one for Andreas and a mango one for me).  Because we chose outdoor seating we were made to order food, so we chose seafood empanadas, which were quite delicious.  The pisco sours gave us a buzz, so we decided to sober up a little in our apartment before dinner.

Our plan was to check out what Andreas’ friend called “the best sushi in town” at a place close to our apartment called Izakaya Yoko (Monjitas 296a.)  With such a laudatory proclamation, we were excited by the prospect of eating sushi in Santiago, but after seeing the menu, I felt very let down.  We got to the restaurant at 9pm and the small space was absolutely empty.  The sushi chef of the place is Japanese, which, for me, was a good sign.  But the menu was absolutely monopolized by salmon nigiri and rolls (much like the sushi menu at Dashi in Buenos Aires).  Because we were hungry, we ordered what we thought were the most interesting of the salmon offerings.  And we kept wondering, “How many ways can you prepare salmon?”  By the end of it, we were salmon’ed out.  I thought our bill was  high for the mediocre rolls we had – about $50USD for the both of us.  Needless to say, Andreas and I left disappointed.  Yet luckily this would be the only foodie-low point we would experience in Santiago, since the city is full of other fantastic food finds – and we would definitely get our sushi fix with tuna in the city a few days later!

Hola Chile!


Andes Mountains taken from Cerro San Cristobal in Santiago

My only complaint with my departure out of Argentina would have to be the absurdly long immigration line at EZE at 5am!  A Brazilian girl ahead of me collapsed to the ground perhaps because of heat exhaustion or maybe because she partied too hard the night before.  Whatever the case, her friends huddled around her fanning their tickets at her face.  Only after about 10 minutes of this did any staff people approach the girl to see if she needed help.  Thankfully she recovered a few minutes later and got herself to her gate.  It was definitely an odd thing to witness so early in the morning.

My flight to Santiago was a breeze.  The LAN flight was comfortable, and it once again reminded me how behind U.S.-based international airlines are in aesthetics and service.  After Andreas’ horrible experience flying back to the U.S. from Santiago with American Airlines, we are going to try very hard to fly LAN or something  comparable on our next trip to South America.  The early flight to Santiago provides amazing morning views of the sunrise and surreal views of the Andes.  A window seat is a must!  The ride over the Andes is a quick one, so be ready for it.


Mural at the Bellas Artes Subway Station

For anyone who has traveled to the Santiago airport early in the morning, you know how crazy things get given the large number of flights that arrive between 7am and 9am.  The immigration lines are insanely long, but Chileans are a bit more attuned to issues of efficiency and the lines, in my opinion, move at a good pace.  Americans will need to pay a reciprocity fee of $141 before they get into the immigration line – there is a separate line for that at the extreme left-hand side of the vast room.  Andreas and I arrived at the same time – he arrived from Dallas – and I spotted him quickly as he worked his way into the immigration line.  Seeing him was a fantastic sight after a month separated.  We were ready to do it up in Santiago, but first we had to find our way out of the airport.  Be sure to keep the immigration paper that is stamped by the immigration officer as you exit to baggage claim – you will need to return it when you depart from the airport.  We booked a ride using Taxi Oficial for CLP$15,000, or about $30USD, from the airport to the apartment we rented downtown  (there is a Taxi Oficial booth right before you exit the customs area and are released into the throng of people wanting to sell you a ride to anywhere).  There will be someone outside the door with a Taxi Oficial sign who will take you to your car.  It’s a quick ride to the city, about 20 minutes depending on traffic.


Our lovely apartment managed by Santiago SOHO Apart (Miraflores 455)

Before arriving to Santiago, Andreas and I reserved an apartment through Santiago SOHO Apart (Miraflores 455, close to the Bellas Artes green-line subway station).  For $75USD a night, we rented a very chic and modern furnished one-bedroom apartment, with kitchen.  Breakfast is delivered at noon daily, and a housekeeper cleans the apartment daily as well.  There is a supermarket a block away.  The room is equipped with Wi-Fi and a safe. Laundry services are inside the building.  Be prepared to speak only Spanish to the staff of Santiago SOHO Apart.  I recommend using Google Translate to help you communicate with the staff.  When we first walked into the apartment, we fell in love it with it immediately.  We had a terrific view of the wall mural at the Bellas Artes subway station from our balcony, as well as Cerro San Cristobal – the hill with the famous statue of the Virgin Mary.  We both thought the price for the apartment was definitely a steal for Santiago!

We decided a nap was in order since I hadn’t slept any since the day before and neither had Andreas on his flight.  We woke up seven hours later, armed with a list of restaurant recommendations from Andreas’ friend, refreshed and ready to hit the streets.

I Love Bolsas De Viaje!


Bolsas de Viaje

I am loving the wallet and laptop/messenger bag that I bought in Buenos Aires.  Made by super cool Argentine bag and accessory design company Bolsas de Viaje, I spotted the two products in a store called Trippin in Palermo Soho (Armenia 1838), a block away from where I lived.  The products by Bolsas de Viaje are geared towards people who appreciate functional and urban design and caters to people who want something a bit out of the ordinary.  The bags and accessories are unisex .


Bolsas De Viaje Laptop/Messenger Bag and Wallet

I love the laptop/messenger bag that I bought.  Made with canvas and leather, the striped shoulder strap sold me instantly.  The bag is a tad pricey at AR$400, or about $100 USD, but I knew that I wouldn’t see anyone in the U.S. with the same bag.  I also had to buy the wallet, which is essentially just a pocket wallet.  The material is leather, and it cost AR$80 or about $20 USD.

If you want something different, stylish, well-designed and uniquely Argentinian , go find yourself something by Bolsas de Viaje!

Soundtrack // Buenos Aires // : Animal Arithmetic

Jónsi‘s “Animal Arithmetic” captures the pulse of Buenos Aires for me, more so than any of the neuvo tango you’ll hear playing all throughout Buenos Aires. It brought a smile to my face every time I listened to it in my small studio apartment in Palermo Soho … Everyday, everywhere, people are so alive …

Besos Buenos Aires!


My studio apartment in Palermo Soho on Calle Armenia

I decided to hire a car service to take me to the airport rather than take a taxi since I had to leave at 4:30am on Saturday.  While a cab would have cost about $40USD, I opted to hire the services of SilverStar in Buenos Aires, a car service run by the American owner Fred and his wife.   I had read only positive reviews of Fred’s SilverStar service on Trip Advisor and decided that for the peace of mind that I would have traveling so early in the morning and the comfort of a nice ride, I’d pay the $72USD for the city-to-airport transfer (Fred also offers other types of car services, including city tours).  Fred arrived at my hotel in a brand new Citroen C4 Sedan at 4am.  The ride felt very luxurious and exceedingly comfortable.  Payment of tolls is included in the fees, and he has an app on his iPhone that allows you to pay with credit cards.   Fred is a friendly guy and has plenty of insights to offer about living in Buenos Aires.  If you want a lovely splurge on transfers to and from the airport, I recommend Fred’s services.

What can I say?

My month in Buenos Aires was a much-needed change in my life, and I will miss the city and people that I’ve met tremendously.  I will miss my small studio apartment in Palermo Soho (Armenia 1973) and the many idiosyncrasies that make Buenos Aires what it is.  Buenos Aires is city replete with history and culture.  It is a city, in many ways, still recovering from its economic collapse in 2001/2002, but brimming with determination and potential.  While a little rough on the edges, the ironic juxtapositions you will see everywhere in the city speak to its dynamism and the deliberate intentions of porteños. Porteños are a fierce bunch!   As I stood in line to board my LAN flight to Santiago, I thought ahead to my inevitable return.  But I was also excited to meet up with Andreas in Santiago to start our new adventures in Chile!

Besos Buenos Aires!

Kaiten-Zushi in Buenos Aires: Tô Restaurant

Who doesn’t love kaiten-zushi, or conveyor belt-sushi?

Recommended by the lovely staff at the Rendez-Vous Hotel, a group of my friends and I trekked over to Tô Restaurant (Costa Rica 6000) in Palermo Hollywood for a fabulous farewell dinner on my last night in Buenos Aires.  The front-desk woman at my hotel described it as French cuisine meets Japanese, but with a conveyor belt thrown into the mix.  The website of the restaurant calls it: “Concepto Frapanese.”  I was obviously intrigued and asked her to make us reservations. We felt lucky to get seats at the conveyor-belt bar in view of the sushi-preparers (as the short video that I made shows).  Reservations are definitely needed.  By 10pm, the place is packed!  And for good reason, Tô Restaurant is a fabulous and chic restaurant – and by far, the most gourmet conveyor-belt sushi restaurant that I’ve ever been to.   With sky-rocket high prices, the restaurant attracts many foreigners and the elite of Buenos Aires.  For a good three-hours of eating scrumptious sushi rolls, nigiri, and other Japanese/French-inspired dishes – all washed down with a bottle of red wine – we all felt a little more elevated in mind and spirit.


(Source)

Tô has two levels.  On the ground level is the conveyer-belt sushi bar as well as the regular bar.  The room feels open with its high ceiling which is adorned by a beautiful mobile that looks to be built with chopsticks.  The bamboo wood against lacquer aesthetic (think bento box) predominates the space.  At night the room is aglow with sensual mood lighting as well as light entering from the street.  The soundtrack of the space is loungey, what I’d imagine is played in all the cool bars in Paris or in Tokyo. There is a second level that is reached by stairs that we didn’t get a chance to see.  But it looked exclusive given the stylishness of all the people we spotted going upstairs.


Flaming Dragon Roll at Tô

Service was very attentive.  We were helped by at least three servers at any given moment. There is an English menu if you want to order appetizers or more elaborate rolls or sushi combinations as well as wine, which we did.  The dishes taken off the conveyor belt are priced by the color of the plate.  The highest-priced dish is a little over $7USD.  The salmon skin rolls off the conveyor belt is amazing.  I had chicken yakitori as an appetizer that came with a peanut dipping sauce (an interesting Japanese/Thai fusion) and a well-prepared Bloody Mary.   My group ended up ordering at least five rolls off the menu as well as many individual plates off the conveyor belt.  The most elaborate roll we ordered was the dragon roll that came with a flaming dipping sauce.   And we also ordered a bottle of Bonarda wine – my new favorite grape varietal.  I am scrimping on the details of our dishes in part because we were very much into the moment of eating the delicious food at Tô, and I was more focused on enjoying my friends company and the sublime experience on my last night in Buenos Aires.  The food we had was quite sublime, and I’d only wish I’d have discovered the restaurant earlier.  You will definitely find red tuna nigiri and sushi rolls at Tô.

Our total bill totaled about AR$900 or about $225USD – for our group. Or about $56USD a person for a group of 4.  Pricey – quite!  Worth it – definitely!

Rendez-Vous Hotel and Anuva Wines

Because my flight out of Buenos Aires to Santiago, Chile, was scheduled for 6:30am – to coincide with Andreas’ arrival – I decided to spend my last night in Buenos Aires at a hotel.  I officially checked out of my lovely studio apartment on calle de Armenia that I’d grown very attached to on my last Friday in Buenos Aires and hopped into a cab for a short ride over to Palermo Hollywood.  I had reserved a room two weeks prior to my departure during a fantastic wine tasting with the Portland/Buenos Aires-based wine club Anuva Wines, which was held at the Rendez-Vous Hotel (Bonpland 1484).


Anuva Wine Tasting in Buenos Aires

For those unable to visit Argentina’s wine country, I highly recommend the wine tasting.  Our American host Sarah was very knowledgeable with the wines and the food-pairings.  Her breadth of information about the different regions in Argentina made me realize that another trip to Argentina is definitely in order.  The cost of the tasting for groups of 2 or more is $40USD person, which includes smart food pairings and multiple pours of each of the wines.   My favorite wine of the evening: 2005 Mairena Bonarda.


Guess who? Iconic portraits in my room.

I was so taken by the vibrant colors of the chic interior of the boutique hotel during the wine-tasting that I mentioned to our wine host that I was looking to spend my last night at a hotel.  She highly recommended the Rendez-Vous Hotel and walked me right over to the front desk to inquire whether a room was available.  The friendly woman at the front desk spoke perfect English and informed me that a room was available.  For $95USD, I booked myself a standard room in the 11-room boutique hotel, breakfast included.  Also offered was a 10% discount if I paid with cash (which I did).  The Rendez-Vous Hotel is also in the perfect location, in walking distance to the many amazing restaurants and shop in Palermo Hollywood and Soho.


My room in the Rendez-Vous Hotel.

While I was very sad to leave my apartment, I was looking forward to my last night at the Rendez-Vous Hotel.  A little pampering is always a good thing.  My room was on the third floor facing calle Bonpland.  Each of the rooms in the hotel is unique and was designed by the owner Frédéric DuBois, a former professional dancer in France and Feng-Shui expert.  The color green dominated my room, which inspired a calming vibe.  The large Victorian-inspired oval windows in the bathroom and bedroom provided the room with plenty of natural light during the day.  The room exuded a style and chic-ness without being too overwhelming.  I loved it all.

I got to meet the owner Frédéric later in the day after an afternoon of shopping.  Over an afternoon cappuccino and croissants, we talked about the overwhelming creative potential of Buenos Aires.  The city is brimming with potential, and so it is exceedingly hard for locals to start businesses because cash is king in the city.  Those with cash – often foreigners – are the ones buying up real-estate and opening up restaurants and shops in neighborhoods like Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood.  Frédéric’s openness about starting his hotel and living in Buenos Aires provided interesting insights into the workings of the city, especially from the prospective of an expatriate.  He exudes creative energy that he has put to lovely use in his wonderful hotel.  Gay travelers will feel extremely comfortable in the hotel.  Maps geared towards gays can be found in the lobby. Frédéric informed me that the hotel will host its first gay-wedding since it became legal to do so in Argentina in the upcoming weeks.  Because the hotel only houses 11 rooms, the staff’s attention to each of its patrons is quite apparent.  One of the staff members made reservations for me that evening for an ultra-posh restaurant, (more on Tô soon), and Frédéric was extremely accommodating to my needs.  When I left at 4am to go to airport, a breakfast was waiting for me in the café area with a freshly brewed café con leche.

Discovering the Rendez-Vous Hotel was definitely one of the highlights of my trip to Buenos Aires.  You must stay there to experience how a boutique hotel should be run.  It is simply wonderful.



Gourmet Seafood in Buenos Aires: Go to Crizia

On my second to last night in Buenos Aires, “the girls” and I decided to check out Crizia (5143 Gorriti), upon reading a favorable review of the restaurant on Chowhound.  I was particularly excited since the restaurant specializes in among other things seafood, a rarity in Buenos Aires.  Crizia is about a block away from La Cabrera in Palermo Soho.  The front exterior of the restaurant is fairly nondescript (I almost passed it by on my way there).  But the interior is anything but nondescript.  The small waiting area is connected by a passageway to the the larger space of the dining area.  It literally feels like you are entering a warehouse space that had been converted into a ultra-chic and contemporary dining room, lit with just enough mood lighting.  The ceilings are at least 30 feet up, which makes the restaurant feel very open.  The servers were very attentive to our needs and patient with our remedial Spanish.


Half-dozen raw oysters, with shallot vinegar, tabasco, lemon

What jumped out to me from the menu for my starter was probably the most questionable of my dinner selections.  I had to have the oysters, but it didn’t occur to me at the time to think twice about my want.  Raw oysters?  In Buenos Aires?  I had eaten sushi on several occasions in the city without incident.  But in all honesty, I didn’t think twice about ordering the raw oysters.  And luckily I didn’t over-intellectualize the situation because the oysters were fresh, plump, and absolutely delicious, especially with  the shallot vinegar sauce.  I believe that I was actually cooing in delight.


Crispy pink salmon with soy sauce and sesame

I chose the crispy salmon (grilled, I believe), with a soy and sesame sauce.  It came with a bed of crispy noodles on the side.  The salmon was cooked to perfection, and the flavors of the soy and sesame sauce were enhanced with fresh cilantro.  For a minute, I thought I was back in Seattle.  Sublime.  I’m still fairly speechless.


Summer sorbets

For dessert, I ordered the summer sorbets made in-house (raspberries, passion fruit, pink grapefruit).  In my opinion, there’s nothing better than to clean one’s palate (especially after a lovely seafood extravaganza) with ice-cream or sorbets.  The sorbets were a delight.

For Buenos Aires, the prices at Crizia are fairly pricey.  But even with a bottle of Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda that we all shared, each of us paid between $30 to $40 USD.  But the experience of eating at such a fantastic place where seafood is front and center is well worth the high prices.   Crizia is a must!

Mis Tres Comidas Favoritas en Buenos Aires*

- 3 -

En el barrio Palermo Soho, hay un muy lindo y pequeño restaurante dentro de una librería. El nombre de la librería es Libros del Pasaje (Thames 1762). En la carta del restaurante, hay una pequeña pizza que es muy deliciosa! La pizza tiene, espinacas, tomates secados al sol, y jamon salado. El precio de la pizza es muy buena porque no es cara. Los sabores de la pizza son simples pero muy ricos. La pizza es una merienda perfecta! Yo la recomiendo.

- 2 -

El numero dos es una sopa de mariscos maravillosa. En el barrio San Telmo, hay un nuevo restaurante que hace muchas comidas de Chile y Argentina. El nombre del restaurante es De Lira Restaurant (1336 Defensa). Me gusta comer las comidas de Chile porque las comidas utilizan muchos mariscos. La sopa de mariscos es una pequeña entrada pero hay muchos mariscos dentro del plato de sopa. En la sopa hay muchos pequeños camarones, almejas, mejillones, y un gran langostino en el centro. Los sabores son complejos pero no abrumadores. Si te gustan los mariscos, la sopa es perfecta para vos. Yo la recomiendo.

- 1 -

Mi numero uno es ojos de bife de La Cabrera. La Cabrera es parrilla muy popular en Buenos Aires y en el barrio Palermo Soho (Cabrera 5099). Que puedo decir? El chef cocina el bife perfectamente. El bife es muy tierno y jugoso. La carne es de una rosa perfecta cuando yo lo corte. Y la carne es gruesa y grande. El precio de la comida es un poco caro pero yo lo recomiendo. El bife es perfecto!

* entre Julio 13 y Agosto 11, 2010

Meat Eaters Unite at La Cabrera

I’d been looking forward to dinner at the parilla La Cabrera (Cabrera 5099) in Palermo Soho since last week when friends and I stopped by without a reservation only to encounter a packed house. We decided not to wait, so we made sure to make a reservation for a few days later. And we were first on the list!

The host of La Cabrera wasn’t kidding when she told us last week that reservations are always needed. Last night we arrived to a throng of people waiting in front of the restaurant. This was at 8:30pm. Many of the people in the crowd were obviously foreigners. I heard mostly English speakers. I also noticed a few tables inside already occupied, so I figured the folks waiting outside were those without reservations. (If you decide to wait for a table, the restaurant will serve those waiting outside a glass of sparkling wine!) We walked up to the front of the pack and told the host we had a reservation. Our host walked us to our table near the front restaurant windows. It was the perfect table.

Service was fantastic. Our server was attentive, patient, and spoke minimal English. Luckily our Spanish lessons are paying off so communicating with our server was doable. The restaurant has a romantic charm to it, especially with the low lighting situation. The space is full of tables, so it might feel a little cramped, especially at the height of the dinner rush. While some people might be turned-off by the closeness of the other diners, it adds, in my opinion, a communal dining ambiance.


Beef tenderloin grilled with thyme

La Cabrera’s menu is lengthy. Prices are high compared to other restaurants in Buenos Aires, but I expected that. For all the buzz that I read about La Cabrera, I was actually expecting even higher prices. It’s no wonder, perhaps, why most of the restaurant’s patrons are foreigners. Be forewarned: ordering a steak will get you plenty of small sides that are paired to the steak you select; you will also get a small side salad. My friends and I didn’t know this, so we ordered additionally what we thought were small sides. But what we got were dishes that could have stood as meals by themselves. One of my friends ordered a salad and was brought a very large bowl of it that could have fed everyone at the table and more. I ordered what I thought was a side of french fries, but got a heaping amount of fries that could have fed four or five people. Needless to say we wound up with a whole lot of food.


Ojos de Bife (Rib-Eye Steak)

As for the steaks … well, what can I say that hasn’t already been said. The steaks were perfect. The side pairings were a nice touch. I ordered a medium-sized rib-eye steak (ojos de bife), about 400g for about AR$60 (I had the option of a large 600g rib-eye for about AR$20 more). I ordered it medium rare – the waiter understood what I meant when I said it in English. I said that I wanted it pink at the center and juicy. What I got exceeded my expectations. The “medium” steak was far larger than what I thought it would be and so succulent. My favorite side dish were the marinated mushrooms that matched perfectly with my steak. We also ordered a bottle of Malbec by Quara from the Salta region, which worked well with the food we ordered. By the end of dinner we were all pleasantly and happily satisfied.


The perfect crème brûlée

If you are looking to dine with the locals, La Cabrera might not be the place for you. The restaurant is much more of a tourist trap than Don Julio. The food at both places are fantastic. But if you are looking to eat the perfect steak, you will definitely find it at La Cabrera. It is a bit pricey (the cover charge per person alone is AR$12), but it’s money well spent. The service is very good, especially given how not-so-good Argentine restaurant service can be.

So go already!